Royal Rajasthan 2 - Dec 1st to 7th 2014

Bangalore - Nawalgarh - Ajmer - Pushkar - Lohargal - Dundlod - Mandawa - Jhunjhunu - Jaipur

Padhaaro Maare Des... is the tag line of Rajasthan tourism, so we took them up on it and decided to do this time Jaipur and surrounding areas as we had finished the West and South of Rajasthan earlier. Flight tickets and hotel bookings done, info gleaned, we were ready. This is a looong blog, but please bear with me...traversing 800 to 1000 years is not easy. :-)

Day 1 - Monday, Dec 1st. 2014 - Bangalore - Jaipur - Nawalgarh

The Indigo flight at 5.20pm landed at Jaipur at 7.45pm. Collected the baggage and went to our waiting taxi and set off for Club Mahindra (CM) Nawalgarh which is 142 kms away. Enroute we stopped for dinner at Sharma's Dhaba, at the 14th milestone where we have dhabas on both sides of the road. Some yummy rotis and subzi (Rajasthan is mainly vegetarian and non - veg is available at only a few select hotels/restaurants - fine by us) later, we set off on NH 52 to Nawalgarh via Sikar and reached CM Nawalgarh at 11.30pm, checked in to our lovely period room at the Roop Vilas Palace Haveli and went straight to bed.

Day 2 - Nawalgarh - Ajmer/Pushkar

7am, very cold, so bundled up and left for Ajmer via Sikar, Makrana - yes, the cradle of marble - so got us a small mortar and pestle, and continued on to Ajmer Dargah Sharif, which is the final resting place of the Muslim saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti. The main gate to the shrine is the Nizam Gate, following which is Shahjahani Gate which was erected by Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan. It is followed by Buland Darwaza, upon which the Urs (annual festival) flag is hoisted. The area is very crowded and cars are stopped a kilometer away, you can gift a chader if you wish. This dargah is open to all to visit and has a great significance to many. Also known as Gharīb Nawāz "Benefactor of the Poor", he is the most famous founder saint of the Chishti Order of Sufism of the Indian subcontinent. 

We then drove by the Ana Sagar lake. built by Ana Chauhan the grandfather of Prithviraj Chauhan and is about 13 square kms in size. 

On to the Adhai Din ka Jhopda - this mosque is made of red stone and has several inscriptions on its columns from the Quran. It is actually a Masjid built by Qutub-ud-Din-Aibak, first Sultan of Delhi, in AD 1199 contemporary to the other one built at Qutub-Minar complex of Delhi. The reason it is called Adhai Din ka Jhopda is purportedly due to two reasons - 1. There used to be a fair held those days for 2 1/2 days in the vicinity and people who came to the fair spent the nights here. 2. That all the elements basically came from a temple which was demolished and assembled together in just 2 1/2 days. A lot of columns showing Indian Gods' sculptures are found lying around. Take your pick. Seeing how it was built by the Mughals flush after their victory and in the throes of setting up an empire, the latter has gained credence over the years, esp as Lord Cunningham endorsed this theory in his journals.

By this time we were already nearing noon, so we drove to Pushkar, about 15 kms away. Well known worldwide for its annual camel fair, it has a lovely lake and the Brahma temple. India is full of interesting stories and this is no different. Legend has it that Brahma wanted to do a Yajna but his consort was delayed so Brahma decided to go ahead anyway (braveheart !!). She was so enraged that she cursed him saying no one would ever worship Brahma ever, despite him being the creator. When the other Gods pleaded with her to repeal the curse, she relented enough to say that Pushkar would be the only place where Brahma would be worshipped and well, it is the only Brahma temple in the world ! Also the place of retreat for the Mughal kings, the palace near the lake is today a heritage hotel. One peeve ..the touts near the temple are very irritatingly in your face.

We were hungry as breakfast had been at 6am, and went to a small dhaba and had some hot rotis and palak paneer and chach (spiced buttermilk) which was delicious, though all these areas could be maintained cleaner. There is a lovely bazaar near the temple all the way to the Pushkar lake, which is a riot of colors with sunlight reflecting off colorful turbans, mirror work on bed sheets, dresses, sarees etc., with gaily decorated camels et al...quintessentially Indian ! A languid walk through the bazaar admiring the dexterity and skill of the Rajasthani artisans, having bought some amla ka murabba, had us reluctantly bidding good bye as it was a good 200 kms drive back to CM Nawalgarh.

This is when our driver lost his way and drove through the back of the beyond, through some dusty and awfully filthy roads which gave us a good idea of India must have been 10 centuries ago. However this lesson came at a cost - a 120 kms extra drive making the drive back nearly 6 hours long instead of 3 hours and through nallahs, ruts etc where I hurt my back ....finito, I was in agony by the time we reached CM Nawalgarh, barely managed to change and have dinner before crashing out. 

Day 3 - Nawalgarh - Lohargal

My painful back ensured we left the resort only at 10am. But even then, we stopped to admire this gorgeous haveli, one among a few buildings on the 100 acre property belonging to Maharajah of Nawalgarh who even now maintains stables of horses, and comes to hunt (huh?!!) rabbits etc when his blue blood calls for blood I guess (smile). Built in the typical Shekhawati style with a chaubara (somari katte..haha), courtyard with rooms all around it with paintings covering every inch of the place making them unbelievable lovely. Our room itself had the traditional furniture but thankfully with modern toilets ! It faced the courtyard and the restaurant Risoda. Peacocks and a musician playing background music as we roamed the extensive grounds made us feel like royalty and the crisp morning air was just the perfect weather.

We finally left for the local sightseeing by 11 am.

Nawalgarh - Located in the culturally rich Shekhawati region of Rajasthan, this little city depicts the grandeur of a royal way of life. Housing many havelis of different sizes, Nawalgarh has a little piece of history and legend in every nook and corner.

Established in the early 18th Century by Thakur Nawal Singhji Shekhawat, this quiet town boasts of magnificent havelis and ornate bungalows. These structures speak volumes about the old world lifestyle of Rajasthan, maintaining traditional values and the royal legacy. The Bala Kila Fort is the central attraction, built when the city was established. Many business families, especially those of the Marwari community trace back their roots to Nawalgarh. The Sheesh Mahal has some spectacular frescoes and murals, including the map of Jaipur and Nawalgarh on the ceiling. 

Ramnath Poddar's Poddar ji ki Haveli,  is something to treasure. He, philanthropist and educationist has converted it into a museum after restoring it with a lot of love and depicts Rajasthan in its entirety - attire, forts, temples, dances, weddings etc. And then again the murals and frescoes are simply breath taking. Close by is the Murarka Haveli which has been conserved in an as is condition and is another resplendent piece of history.

Just opposite the Murarka Haveli is the Gher ka Mandir which houses several deities and dates back over 800 years. Its domes and gates stand as sentinels to Nawalgarh which apparently in ancient times one of the best planned cities, the havelis are gasp - worthy but the city within these old vanguards is today filthy, sewers are overflowing and food is being sold uncovered open to dust, flies etc which really mars what should be a lovely walk through pages of history. A real shame.

We then drove to Lohargal which is about 20+ kms. Lohargal has great historical importance – regarded as the place of Bhima, one of the heroes of the great epic of India – the Mahabharata. The holy shrine of Lohargal is situated at the foot hills of the Aravalli Ranges.

In the Varāha Purana, a place named Lohārgala is stated to be ruled over by the Mleccha kings. 

There is a bawadi (stepped well) at Lohargal, where pilgrims who cannot afford to go all the way to Varanasi come to wash away their sins. According to myth a might army of Pandavas came to bathe here after a glorious victory on the battle fields only to find that their weapons and armour dissolved in the water. The literal meaning of Lohargal is Loha (Iron)+Gal (To melt), means that melts the iron.

Rajashthan is one state which is known mainly for its medieval forts and ancient temples. The Sun forms an important part of Indian mythology. Indians worship the Sun as Sun God or Surya Dev. The Sun temple at Lohargal, Rajasthan is dedicated to the Sun God along with his consort, not found anywhere else in the world.
.

For some reason every shop in this small little place stocks some 50 varieties of you-name - it - we - have - it pickles !! Couldn't resist so bought the only sealed pickle available - chillies - and a tiny quantity of aam ka achaar too...to eat with lunch that day.

By this time it was 2 pm and we were hungry and I was in a lot of pain, so back we went to a wonderful Rajasthani thali prepared specially for us at CM Nawalgarh. One interesting tit-bit - the Rajasthanis machismo prevents them from drinking beer which is not strong (lager, draught are not macho enough !!) and all liquor shops are barricaded and have grills like Fort Knox as errant drunk mobs go on the rampage after 1 too many "strong" beer (smile). Evening we watched the traditional potter make lovely clay pots weaving magic with his wheel. A leisurely dinner and rest ended the day.

Day 4 - Dundlod, Mandawa and Jhunjunu

A relaxed morning stroll with masala chai watching peacocks and rabbits, breathing in the fresh crisp cold morning air, a hot unhurried breakfast and we left at 10.30am. 

The Arjun Das Goenka Haveli at Dundlod was our first stop. The haveli was built in 1875 and the restored walls are replete with colorful paintings and the rooms give a good idea of the lives of these merchants in the 19th century. 

We saw the Dundlod fort and then moved on.to Mandawa. Here as in other places you trip and you will fall in to a haveli. But if there is a hotel which is run in a restored haveli of the Poddars the unimaginatively named Hertage Hotel Mandawa , which deserves mention, it is this. It gives a dekko in to the luxurious lives of the well healed Shekhawats of Jatland. The sheer beauty is stunning. All havelis have an entry fee ranging from Rs.40 to Rs.100 pp but this one has a cover charge of Rs.250/pp but is totally worth it. Of course we were served masala chai which was welcome in the cold and dumbstruck as we were by the sheer magnificence of the haveli-hotel. Wish more havelis are restored to their former splendor...Take a look.

Happily stunned we drove another 28 kms to Jhunjhunu, the district HQ and home to the Rani Sati Mandir. This temple is said to be about 400 years old, and has a legend of a lady who was so distraught when Abhimanyu was killed in battle, she prayed to Lord Krishna to help her in uniting with him in the next birth. Lo behold, it happens, both are reborn in Hissar as Naraini and Tandan, a border town between Rajasthan and Haryana, and are married leading a happy life. A horse owned by them is coveted by the king who slays Tandan and Naraini not only avenges his death but becomes a sati. Being against this system which I view as another lapse by society on women, we did not do the puja, but visited the temple for its architectural beauty. 

By this time it was past 1.30pm, so we had lunch at the canteen which was clean and nice, but the food in Rajasthan per se is swimming in oil and heavily spiced. By now I was yearning for my anna - saaru ! Reached CM at 3 pm and rested my bad back. Evening watched a Rajasthani dance and after a simple meal called it a day.

Day 5 - Nawalgarh - Jaipur

We left CM Nawalgarh at 10.30am after breakfast and had lunch at Khandelwals dhaba at the same point we had it on Day 1 and then drove on to our Red Fox Hotel on Jawaharlal Nehru Marg. This is a hotel by Lemon Tree chain. Clean, utilitarian and comfortable, it is a good option. We checked in at 3pm and immediately rested as my back was acting up. The hotel was agog with two wedding parties, which we realized soon was common in Jaipur as it is the destination wedding capital of India. In fact weddings veer from ostentatious to grossly vulgar, with display of jewels and clothes which can maybe wipe India's outstanding debts!!

A cool evening stroll around the hotel and a stop at Saras Milk Parlour for some chach was the highlight of the cool evening.

A visit here is a must if you are in Jaipur so off we went - yes - Chokhi Dhani means ‘special village’ and this mock Rajasthani village, 20km south of Jaipur, lives up to its name. As well as the restaurants, where you can enjoy an oily Rajasthani thali, there is a bevy of traditional entertainment. We wandered around and watched traditional tribal dancers setting fire to their hats, children balancing on poles and dancers dressed in lion costumes lurking in a wood. You can also take camel and elephant rides. There is also a heritage hotel for stays. A meal costs you approx. Rs.550/- + tax. We returned and just hit the sack.

Day 6 - Jaipur

Left at 9am after breakfast straight for Amer fort also known as Amber fort.which is it's name, but situated in the area of Amer..Amer was once known as Dhundar and was ruled by the Kachhwahas from the 11th to the 16th century, until the capital was moved from here to Jaipur. Raja Man Singh built this fort in 1592 AD and Raja Jai Sigh I renovated and added to it later. While many such old structures have been either destroyed or replaced by other things, this fort has stood against all the tests of time and invasions. This fort is also very popularly known as the Amer Palace. The Amer Fort was built in red sandstone and marble and the Maotha Lake adds a certain charm to the entire Fort. Though the fort is quite old and may even look so from the outside, it is beautiful on the inside and boasts of various buildings of prominence like the 'Diwan-i-Aam', the 'Sheesh Mahal' and even the 'Sukh Mahal'. The Amer Fort has influences of both Hindu and Muslim architecture. This fort also has the 'Shila Devi' Temple and the 'Ganesh Pol' which is a gate that leads to the private palaces of the kings. The entrance ramp is populated by the gentle giants the elephants which carry giggling tourists to the fort..Ranga was busy focusing when one came and nudged him gently asking him right of way !!. Cute..really...the size, scale, opulence of these royals even in imagination can be shocking.

From here Jaigarh Fort beckoned....The hilltop Jaigarh Fort is a majestic stronghold built by Sawai Jai Singh II. This almost-intact fort is surrounded by huge battlements and is connected to the Amer Fort (also called 'Amber' Fort), with subterranean passages. Originally built to protect the Amer Fort and the palace within the complex. The fort houses the world's largest cannon "Jaivaana" on wheels, a majestic palace complex and the assembly hall of the warriors known as 'Shubhat Niwas' along with a museum and an armory. Apart from the intricate architecture of the fort, the fort was also renowned for a huge treasure that was believed to be buried under the fort. It is now said that the government of Rajasthan seized the treasure when it was discovered in the 1970s. The Jaigarh Fort was built to secure Jaipur City and the Amer fort from warlords and rivals.The Jaigarh fort was never conquered in battle, and was also the strongest of the three forts in Jaipur. During the Mughal dynasty, the fort bore witness to an ambush by Aurangzeb who defeated and killed his own brother who was the overseer of the cannon outpost in the fort. Apart from that, the fort never witnessed any major resistance, and only fired the world's largest cannon, once!

The City Palace was our next stop. Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II is known to have commissioned work for building the outer wall of the city's complex. He shifted from Amer to Jaipur due to water problems and an increase in population in 1727. The City Palace was where the Maharaja reigned from. This palace also includes the famous 'Chandra Mahal' and 'Mubarak Mahal', and other buildings which form a part of the palace complex. These additions have been known to take place right up to the 20th century. The urban layout of the city of Jaipur was commissioned to Vidyadhar Bhattacharya and Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob. The architectural styles are largely based on a fusion of Rajput, Mughal and European styles. Today, the 'Chandra Mahal' has been turned into a museum which is home to unique handcrafted products.

This vat carried about 330 litres of Ganga Jal and was among many carried by Sawai Man Singh when he went to England for the first time crossing the seven seas when it was considered to make one's faith "bhrashth" if one crossed the black seas (smile)

Tiring by now...we went to the Royal Albert hall Museum at Ram Niwas Garden..It was opened in 1887 as a public museum, it houses a unsurpassed and unique collection of Rajasthan miniature paintings, Traditional Royal Costumes, Woodwork And Sculptures.. It comprises of decorative art objects, pottery objects, paintings, sculptures, woodwork, natural history specimens, an Egyptian Mummy and the well known Persian Golden Carpet. Mehndi, body art and great Rajasthani motifs and designs are also on display in a separate section. There is a zoo behind which we gave a miss. This is also a relic of the 19th century.

Seriously flagging now, we took a chai break, then moved on to see Jal Mahal. The Jal Mahal when translated into English means the Water Palace but the complex was never intended to be used as a palace by Maharaja Madho Singh I. Madho Singh, who constructed the Jal Mahal in 1750, simply wished it to be a lodge for himself and his entourage during his duck hunting parties. 

Tourists who view the Water Palace from the banks of Lake Sagar are often unaware of the technological and design achievements of the ancient palace. Though the palace only appears to be a single story there are actual a further four submerged levels. The solid stone walls hold back millions of litres of water and the special designed lime mortar has prevented water seepage for over 250 years. The Jal Mahal was constructed from pink sandstone and follows the classical Rajput symmetrical style which is found throughout of Rajasthan. Jaipur’s government has made a tremendous effort to improve both the palace and the surrounding lake. Less than 10 years ago the palace was an abandoned ruin with water leaking in while the lake was a foul smelling sewage outlet but today wildlife teems within the lake’s waters a the place is back to its former glory.

Exhausted, we saw it from the banks of the lake and moved on to Jantar Mantar. The Jantar Mantar, Jaipur, is an astronomical observation site built in the early 18th century. It includes a set of some twenty main fixed instruments. They are monumental examples in masonry of known instruments but which in many cases have specific characteristics of their own. The Jantar Mantar is an expression of the astronomical skills and cosmological concepts of the court of a scholarly prince Jai Singh II at the end of the Mughal period.

Hawa Mahal attains uniqueness because of the mass of semi-octagonal bays, carved sandstone grills, 900 niches, finials and domes. Also known as the Palace of Winds, Hawa Mahal has more than 953 small windows carved beautifully to let in the winds.

Hawa Mahal was constructed with red and pink sandstone, fringed with white quick lime. The courtyard to which the Hawa Mahal opens is an impressive place within the palace. To reach to the top floors, there are no stairs; you will have to reach the top through ramps. The typical Rajputana structure of the Hawa Mahal reflects the style and heritage of Jaipur.The palace, which is the part of Hawa Mahal is faced towards the main bazaar street of Jaipur. It was built in 1799 by Maharajah Sawai Pratap Singh with the intention to give the women of the palace an advantage to see the outer world through the stone screens.

Ready to drop by now, we decided to explore the shops the next day, and drove by the Birla Mandir. We reached the hotel for a laaate lunch and some much needed nap. Later in the evening we went to Neelkanth, a shop dealing in Jaipuri handcrafted fabrics, bedspreads etc. Came back via Birla Mandir, had dinner and chilled.

Day 7 - Jaipur - Bangalore - Sunday, Dec 7th 2014

Morning by 11 am we went to the Hawa Mahal Market. Most shops were closed, some open had a lot of bargains which one might want to buy as souvenirs and also home furnishings or clothes . We didn't, so we browsed around and returned by lunch time to the hotel, had lunch and a nap. Woke up at 4.30pm, had coffee, packed up and left for the airport at 5.45pm. Reached the Jaipur airport in 10mins as it is only 3 1/2 kms away. We bid goodbye to this beautiful, clean city with wide roads and beautiful buildings which has morphed from ancient to modern quite seamlessly.

Reached Bangalore by the 8.15pm Indigo flight to touch down at 10.45pm and by the time we reached home it was midnight.

Before I close one interesting thing I had to mention - all signboards in English are perfect in spelling and xerox is in fact correctly written as photostat ! but, some places it is hilarious, like this Namkeen packet we bought, which says - India's Pure Light Snakes - Spicy & Crunchy ! Yikes !!

What a journey..what experiences, sensory - overload and a bad back to nurse over the next few days ! Over and out till next time ! 

Photos courtesy - Ranga !!