Rann of Kutch... The desert weaves a spell..

It was a spur of the moment decision by Roopa and me to go to the Rann of Kutch or precisely the Rann Utsav... Then we decided to ask a few more friends to join us...some of who were inclined to join in since we had a discussion last year, and the dirty dozen happened! 12 women, some known, some unknown, well accomplished and confident..decided an all women's trip was what was needed.

Quick decisions were taken, I started working on the itinerary, Roopa joined in, we planned, re-planned, jiggled and juggled till we had what we wanted. Tickets and accommodation in place, we were ready.

Day 1. 16/02/2016 - Bangalore -Ahmedabad

A bit bleary eyed but enthusiastic the twelve of us met at the Bangalore airport Indigo check in counter, checked in our baggage, introduced ourselves and it was a gut feeling which was to come true..we would hit it off as a group.

Landed in Ahmedabad at 8.30am, we stopped for breakfast at a tiny little place, where the vada and sambar were passable but idlis highly suspect, and upma was declared the overall winner by the 12 South Indian women with a combined culinary experience of say 400 years (smile).

Checked into our boutique hotel, Krios which was surprisingly good, freshened up and left for Sabarmati Ashram.

Sabarmati Ashram- a brief history

On his return from South Africa, Gandhi’s first Ashram in India was established in the Kochrab area of Ahmedabad on 25 May 1915. The Ashram was then shifted on 17 June 1917 to a piece of open land on the banks of the river Sabarmati. Reasons for this shift included: he wanted to do some experiments in living eg farming, animal husbandry, cow breeding, Khadi and related constructive activities, for which he was in search of this kind of barren land; mythologically, it was the ashram site of Dadhichi Rishi who had donated his bones for a righteous war; it is between a jail and a crematorium as he believed that a satyagrahi has to invariably go to either place. The Sabarmati Ashram (also known as Harijan Ashram) was home to Mohandas Gandhi from 1917 until 1930 and served as one of the main centres of the Indian freedom struggle. Originally called the Satyagraha Ashram, reflecting the movement toward passive resistance launched by the Mahatma, the Ashram became home to the ideology that set India free. Sabarmati Ashram named for the river on which it sits, was created with a dual mission. To serve as an institution that would carry on a search for truth and a platform to bring together a group of workers committed to non-violence who would help secure freedom for India.

By conceiving such a vision Gandhi and his followers hoped to foster a new social construct of truth and non-violence that would help to revolutionize the existing pattern of like.

While at the Ashram, Gandhi formed a school that focused on manual labour, agriculture, and literacy to advance his efforts for self-sufficiency. It was also from here on the 12 March 1930 that Gandhi launched the famous Dandi march 241 miles from the Ashram (with 78 companions) in protest of the British Salt Law, which taxed Indian salt in an effort to promote sales of British salt in India. This mass awakening filled the British jails with 60 000 freedom fighters. Later the government seized their property, Gandhi, in sympathy with them, responded by asking the Government to forfeit the Ashram. Then Government, however, did not oblige. He had by now already decided on 22 July 1933 to disband the Ashram, which later became asserted place after the detention of many freedom fighters, and then some local citizens decided to preserve it. On 12 March 1930 he vowed that he would not return to the Ashram until India won independence. Although this was won on 15 August 1947, when India was declared a free nation, Gandhi was assassinated in January 1948 and never returned.

Over the years, the Ashram became home to the ideology that set India free. It aided countless other nations and people in their own battles against oppressive forces.

Today, the Ashram serves as a source of inspiration and guidance, and stands as a monument to Gandhi’s life mission and a testimony to others who have fought a similar struggle.

Then we went to Hathee Singh temple, a beautiful example of .​indegenous Indian 

Architecture. The construction of the temple was initiated originally planned by Shet Hathisinh Kesarisinh, a wealthy Ahmedabad trader who died at 49. The construction was supervised and completed by his wife Shethani Harkunvar. The temple was built during a severe famine in Gujarat. Building the temple employed hundreds of skilled artisans which supported them for a period of two years.

We saw the Siddhi Syed Mosque, one of the oldest in old Ahmedabad area which also houses beautifully crafted window jalis out of stone, which is so exquisite that it has found its place on the cover of the Guiness book of world records.

It was lunch time by then, my knee needed some rest so I went back to the hotel while the rest of the group went to Ratanpol, the mecca for the beautiful textiles of Gujarat, and yes, it cast it's spell on the women who staggered in laden with their bulging bags only by late evening. Sarees, dresses, Modi jackets etc etc. A quick cup of coffee to rejuvenate ourselves and then we drove by the lovely Sabarmati river front done up beautifully by Modi and is a a meeting and fun place for families in the evenings.

Ahmedabad had cast it's spell, the women wanted more shopping... So off we went to Law College Market. Seeing the dazzling display, we fortified ourselves with a glass of masala chai and  then attacked the shops with gusto..bought dupattas, bed spreads, dresses, chappals..you name it...we were hooked and by now fairly cooked! The brilliant hues, the artistic handwork, the friendly haggling over prices, was great and rounded off a Lovely first day..long, tired but definitely not out. Too tired to go anywhere and loaded down with the purchases we reached the hotel and had a surprisingly yummy  meal. This as we were to discover in the days to come was common pan Gujarat..great food at very reasonable price too!

Hit the sack, chattering away though it was to be an early morning.

Day 2 - 17/02/2016 Ahmedabad - Bhuj

We left the hotel at 5am. Reached Adlaj Step well at 6am. Step wells were built to tap into ground water and built centuries ago these step wells still yield sweet drinking water.

Left for Bhuj by 7am and reached by 1pm. Enroute we saw huge salt basins with heavy machinery at work.

Stopped at Bhujodi, a government set up handicrafts village, beautiful work on leather and metal enticed a couple to buy some musical bells. A lovely village visit. 

Stopped for an elaborate Gujarati thali at Hotel Neelam and relished every morsel, esp since breakfast had been packed sandwiches eaten in the bus.

 Then we checked into the Ryan Resort...some beautiful large rooms, had some brief shut eye. We again met up at 5 pm, indulged in some photo shoot thanks to our Vasumati and Roopa, had another of those yummy masala chai and went..take a guess, yes, shopping! Handbags and luggage to carry the shopped items were bought.

Then we went to the Swaminarayan temple, absolutely marvelous carvings, well lit and serene, it calmed all of us and we trooped to hotel Neelam for a simple dinner. Returned to our hotel by ten pm and zzz. My leg needed some serious looking into, did the best I could and propped it on a cushion and switched off.

Day 3 - Bhuj - Rann of Kutch

We left after a leisurely breakfast at 10am, well rested and raring to go! We stopped at the Museum and the palace at Bhuj, both beautiful but not too well maintained sadly, and started our drive to Rann. With every few miles we saw the landscape change, the greenery grow sparse and the arid desert claim everything in sight. This didn't dampen the spirit in the tempo traveller, the jokes, songs and yakity yak was in full flow.

We stopped at a village to watch a form of art where the artistes mix castor oil and minerals to get natural colors and free hand draw on fabric. This Rogan art was made famous by Modi when he gifted a piece with a design called 'Tree of Life' to Obama.

The areas around Kutch are sparsely populated and are said to house predominantly illegal immigrants from Pakistan since decades who came in looking for a better life.

Suitably impressed by the artistry, we set for the Rann. Reached the Rann Utsav tent city at 2.30pm. Checked in. We immediately went to the huge dining hall to have a lovely meal and went to our very minimalist yet comfortable AC tents for a brief snooze by 4pm. By 5.45pm we were given a guide, a young girl Twinkle interning as a guide, who was thrilled to see a happy bunch of women..and took us out to the Rann.

All talking stopped. The vast salt plains, the enormous stretch of nothingness, the sheer size of the barren stark beauty crowned with floating clouds, bathed crimson by the lights of the setting sun took your breath away with its sheer beauty, nature doing its grandstand and one is left speechless! We stayed, walked, admired and with these images etched in our minds forever returned to the tent city.

The tent city a testimonial to the sheer audacity of man, of setting up a luxurious city with over 440 tents with all modern amenities in barely 2 weeks only to be dismantled ok n 3 months! Reclaiming for himself from a harsh land, a slice of color and beauty, stamping his possibility with a thump! What a surprise in the middle of nowhere! Unsurpassed courtesy, meticulous planning of every detail...super! I'm told Modi when he was CM started it to develop this otherwise backward region and ran it for a few years before leasing it to a hospitality chain for 900 crores for 10 years!

Tired but still not done, We stopped for a brief shopping and off for dinner. A sumptuous repast which I didn't enjoy as my leg was seriously giving me trouble, went gamely to watch some beautiful cultural program but had to get back to my tent, retired hurt ! Anita and I chatted for over 2 hrs and by then I was running high fever. Took meds but had a restless night.

Day 4 - Rann of Kutch - Mandvi

Was up by dawn and was given beautiful hot bed tea, which a few of us sipped as we watched the sunrise, chatted with our neighbors, had a bath, changed, had breakfast in that huge Hall again and left Rann with happy and find memories.

 I was still running fever so tried to be comfortable as could be as we reached a temple.. I gave it a miss. Then we left for zero point...India bridge after which is 12kms of no man's land and then Pakistan. Photo ops nil as its prohibited naturally for security reasons. A little time was spent with our BSF Commandos and a couple of visiting airmen and we left for Mandvi. Broke journey again at our now familiar Neelam  restaurant for lunch and continued on to Mandvi, a coastal town.

Reached Mandvi and the Vijay Vilas heritage Palace grounds, a huge property which has rooms, tents and the palace in the background. A bit surprised at the flex mounted structure which was our AC room, we had some lovely chai and after settling in, left after an hour for the palace.

A museum with a terrace which gives a breathtaking view of the whole town..a good hour later we drove a short stretch away to the hotel's private beach with a restaurant and just nature for company.

Our frazzled nerves were sort of soothed by the sheer beauty of the sea and the soft lull of the waves to the backdrop of a shy sun devoid of fury but wrapped in a blanket of clouds, peeking engagingly softly bathing the entire area in its cool, golden light. Sheer bliss. This was such a peaceful retreat that we lost track of time and it was past 8pm when we moved to the restaurant for a grand dinner. It was Suma's birthday so a cake was organized and a gift handed over. What a marvelous birthday...!

Everyone agreed it had been a lovely 4 days but now time had come to do final packing, stuffing the bags and praying it would not show excess baggage... We retired a bit tremulously.

Day 5 - 20/02/16 - Mandvi- Ahmedabad - Bangalore

Had hot aloo parathas, dahi, freshly squeezed Orange juice at 7am and left for our long 450+ kms drive to Ahmedabad.

Reached Ahmedabad by 4pm, and headed straight to Law College market, for some suddenly remembered last minute gift shopping (ha-ha), Induben's famous farsan shop for khakhras, pickles etc. And phew...finally to airport by 6.30pm.

Nobody wanted a big dinner, so some celebratory snacks after realizing that everyone had their luggage within acceptable norms, some barely (wink), and we boarded our Indigo flight back home at 8.30pm. Touched down at 10.30pm, running high fever due to severe pain, I barely managed with the help of a couple of friends to gather my luggage and reach outside where Ranga picked me up. Reached home and collapsed. Slept through for 2 days straight till I felt better.

Nevertheless it was a trip I'll cherish for so many reasons, new friends, exceptional hospitality of the Gujjus, the artistic overload and the piece de resistance... The stark beauty of the Rann and the tent city...an experience to be had at least once in a lifetime.

Peeves - An arrogant ass of a driver, an indifferent vehicle with poor seats.

Pluses - The food, the hospitality, the roads, the shopping!!

Lesson learned - Despite it's beauty, if strapped for time, avoid Mandvi, stay in Ahmedabad another day and do Modera instead.

Next trip to Gujarat - Junagadh, Gir, Porbandar, Diu, Dwarka...:-)